Friday, October 7, 2016

Sazerac Shift Dress SEW ALONG Day 5 - adding elastic to the waist and sharing what you made!

Sazerac Shift Dress Sew Along
Day 5

I am so glad you all are joining me this week to make yourself a Sazerac Shift Dress (get the pattern here)! I cannot wait to see pictures of your dresses that you either finished yesterday, or are finishing today if you want to add the elastic at the waist!

Please share your photos so everyone can see!! You can tag us on instagram #sazeracdress #seaminglysmitten or share it in our facebook group HERE!



Here's the plan:
Monday -  CLICK HERE - DAY 1 print your pattern, choose your size, cut out fabric pieces
Tuesday - CLICK HERE - DAY 2 sew dress at side seams and shoulders
Wednesday - CLICK HERE - DAY 3 sew sleeve seams and inset sleeves
Thursday -CLICK HERE - DAY 4 hem sleeves, neckline and dress hem
Friday - finish, wear it and share it!!


Let's Get Started

1. Adding an Elastic Waist OPTIONAL: Turn your dress inside out and try it on. Mark your natural waist or where you want the dress to be gathered by placing a pin on each side seam. OR Turn your dress inside out and measure from the bottom of each armhole down the side seam _____ inches and place a pin.

*If you typically wear “tall” clothing, add 3 inches to the measurement below. If you typically wear “petite” clothing, subtract 1 inch from the measurements below.

XS – 12 inches below top edge
Small – 12.5 inches below top edge
Medium – 13 inches below top edge
Large – 13.5 inches below top edge
X-Large – 14 inches below top edge.

*shown below -Marking 12 inches


2. Cut the elastic. Cut a piece of ¼ inch or 3/8 inch elastic according to your size in chart below OR *for the best fit, wrap the elastic snugly around your waist, add an inch and cut it to that size.

XS – 24 inches
Small – 25 inches
Medium – 27 inches
Large – 30 inches
X-Large – 33 inches
XX-Large – 37 inches
XXXLarge – 40 inches

3. Sew the elastic into a loop. Sew the ends of your elastic together to make a loop. Place 4 marks (with a marker or chalk) on your elastic loop to show the left side, right side and front and back
middle of the loop.


4. Mark four equally spaced sections. Mark the center front and center back of the dress parallel with the side seam marks you made.

5. Attach elastic. Insert the dress into the elastic loop. Pin the elastic around the dress by matching the four marks. This will evenly space the elastic. *Make sure you are pinning it to the inside of
the dress/ the wrong side of the dress fabric. Sew on the elastic using a zig zag stich and stretching the elastic gently as you go, making sure the dots meet up as you sew. Trim threads. *You need to stretch the elastic so it will gather the fabric back up when you let go of it.


Congratulations!!
You did it!!
You just made yourself a Sazerac Shift Dress!!

Here are my pictures! I paired it with neutral heels and some Kendra Scott earrings and a lapis necklace and then I paired it with a faux suede cardigan from Article and Thread Boutique.








Sazerac Shift Dress SEW ALONG Day 4 - hemming the sleeves, neckline and dress

Sazerac Shift Dress Sew Along
Day 4

I am so glad you all are joining me this week to make yourself a Sazerac Shift Dress (get the pattern here)! We will do a few steps each day of the pattern and by Friday you can wear it, share it and show it off! I cannot wait to see pictures of your dresses! You can tag us on instagram #sazeracdress #seaminglysmitten or share it in our facebook group HERE!

Here's the plan:
Monday -  CLICK HERE - DAY 1 print your pattern, choose your size, cut out fabric pieces
Tuesday - CLICK HERE - DAY 2 sew dress at side seams and shoulders
Wednesday - CLICK HERE - DAY 3 sew sleeve seams and inset sleeves
Thursday - hem sleeves, neckline and dress hem
Friday - finish, wear it and share it!!


How is your dress coming along? What about those sleeves? I know they take lots of pins, but when they are done, doesn't it always feel so good when you turn that sleeve right side out and see what you did!! I remember the first time I did a sleeve and it must have taken me an hour and of course it was far from perfect, but I remember thinking, this opens new doors for my sewing! I loved learning that new skill. It's so easy to shy away from new skills because you think they are too hard or take too much time, but when you finally tackle it you usually think that wasn't too bad after all!

Let's get started!

1. Adding Cuffs - optional If you want to add cuffs, continue here on step 14 in the pattern. If not go to the next step  - hemming!

Cut out your cuff strips: If you want to add long sleeve cuffs, cut out two strips according to size:

XS: 4 inches long x 8.25 inches wide
Small: 4 inches long x 8.5 inches wide
Medium: 4 inches long x 9 inches wide
Large: 4 inches long x 9.5 inches wide
XLarge: 4 inches long x 10 inches wide
XXLarge: 4 inches long x 10.5 inches wide
XXLarge: 4 inches long x 11 inches wide

Sew your cuff into a loop and fold in half: Lay each cuff right sides together so the 4 inch edges meet, pin and sew using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Press seams open. Now make the long, raw edges meet wrong sides together and press with an iron so you have two cuffs that are 2 inch wide each. **TRY IT ON - Slip it onto your wrist to make sure it fits! If not, make another one, adding width - leave the 4 inch length but widen it as needed.







Sew a basting stitch around each sleeve edge: Sew a basting stitch around the hem of each sleeve using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Leave a 6 inch tail of thread at the beginning and ending of your basting thread.

Gather and attach each cuff: Gather each sleeve by pulling on the basting stitches. Place one cuff around each sleeve edge and pin, matching the raw edges. Sew around each cuff using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Serge or zig zag stitch raw edges. Press cuff out and flip seam allowance to the inside of the dress.







2. Hem the neckline Time to hem the neckline: Turn under a ¼ inch then another ¼ inch neckline hem. Iron and pin. Sew around your neckline using a ¼ inch seam allowance OR serge the entire neckline then turn under a ½ inch hem and pin. Sew. OR use double fold bias tape to enclose the neckline.


3. Hem the sleeves:  Hem the sleeves if you did not add a cuff: Fold up a ¼ inch hem on each sleeve and then another ¼ inch. Pin and sew each sleeve hem. **HINT: For the BEST FIT try your dress on
and see where you want the edge of the sleeve to hit on your arm. Place a pin at that spot. Then hem both sleeves.

4. Hem the dress: Hem the dress: Fold up a ¼ inch hem around the entire bottom of your dress,
press with an iron and fold up another ¼ inch hem. Press with an iron and pin all
around the dress’ hem.
OR
Serge around the bottom of the dress, turn up a ½ inch and pin. **HINT: For the BEST FIT try your dress on, mark the desired hem then pin and sew the hem. Remember if you are wearing a belt or
sash or adding elastic this will shorten the dress about 3 inches since the dress will billow over the gathering.

Tomorrow you can add elastic if desired and you can take some pictures and share them! I am so glad we are doing this together! I cannot wait to see what you made!!

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Sazerac Shift Dress SEW ALONG Day 3 - Assemble and attach the sleeves

Sazerac Shift Dress Sew Along
Day 3

I am so glad you all are joining me this week to make yourself a Sazerac Shift Dress (get the pattern here)! We will do a few steps each day of the pattern and by Friday you can wear it, share it and show it off! I cannot wait to see pictures of your dresses! You can tag us on instagram #sazeracdress #seaminglysmitten or share it in our facebook group HERE!

Here's the plan:
Monday -  DAY 1 - CLICK HERE print your pattern, choose your size, cut out fabric pieces
Tuesday - DAY 2 - CLICK HERE sew dress at side seams and shoulders
Wednesday - sew sleeve seams and inset sleeves
Thursday - hem sleeves, neckline and dress hem
Friday - finish, wear it and share it!!

I hope you all enjoyed sewing your dress together yesterday! Didn't that go by quickly? Hopefully today's steps will go just as well for you! We are assembling and attaching the sleeves today. Even if you have not inset sleeves before, you CAN do it!! Look at the pictures, take your time and use lots of pins! Ready? Here we go!

Let's get started! 

1. Assemble sleeves Lay each sleeve right sides together. Pin down the length of each sleeve. 


Sew down your pinned edge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Serge or zig-zag stitch the raw edges to reduce fraying. 


Serged edge close up.

2. OPTIONAL: Baste stitch the armhole curve. To help gather the sleeve to fit in the armhole, run a 3 or 4 inch basting stitch centered along the fold of each sleeve armhole curve using a 1/8 inch seam allowance. Remember to leave a 6 inch tail of thread at the beginning and ending of your stitches. This will help you gather the sleeve when you inset the sleeve into the armhole in the dress OR you can gather it by hand and pin. It's your choice! 


3. Inset the sleeve and pin. Turn dress inside out. Turn sleeves right side out. Insert one sleeve into one armhole – the sleeve hem’s edge goes in first. Next, match the sleeve seam to the side seam of the armhole of the dress. Pin all around the armhole starting from the side seam up to the shoulder seam. Repeat for the other sleeve. If you need to gather the sleeve fabric, gather it near the shoulder seams evenly.

*Make sure you insert the sleeve with the sleeve edge (the part that will be by your wrist) into the armhole first.
 Pin well.

4. Sew the pinned sleeves to attach them to the dress. Sew around the armhole using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Remove pins as you sew. Repeat for the other sleeve. Serge or
zig-zag stitch raw edges. 




You did it!! You inset your sleeves! Not bad, right? Go ahead and try on the dress! See if it fits! Tomorrow we add sleeve cuffs (optional) and hem the neckline, sleeves and dress! I would love to hear how it's going for you! Email me, comment below or post on our facebook group page here! Happy Sewing! 

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Sazerac Shift Dress sewing pattern SEW ALONG Day 2 - Sew the side seams and shoulders

Sazerac Shift Dress Sew Along
Day 2

I am so glad you all are joining me this week to make yourself a Sazerac Shift Dress (Grab the pattern here!) We will do a few steps each day of the pattern and by Friday you can wear it, share it and show it off! I cannot wait to see pictures of your dresses! You can tag us on instagram #sazeracdress #seaminglysmitten or share it in our facebook group HERE!

Here's the plan:
Monday - CLICK HERE - Day 1 print your pattern, choose your size, cut out fabric pieces
Tuesday - sew dress at side seams and shoulders
Wednesday - sew sleeve seams and inset sleeves
Thursday - hem sleeves, neckline and dress hem
Friday - finish, wear it and share it!!

Yesterday we printed the pattern, chose your size and cut out our fabric pieces. Find DAY 1 HERE if you missed it! Sewing for just a few minutes a day makes sewing so much easier! But I have to be honest, it was kind of hard putting the fabric down and walking away from it once it was cut! :) Anybody else feel that way? So, today I'm excited for us to continue!

Let's get started!

1. Pin the side seams (we are on step 9 in the pattern). Lay your dress pieces right sides together.
Pin both shoulders and dress side seams. 



2. Sew pinned edges. Sew along your pinned edges on the shoulders and side seams using a 3/8 inch seam allowance. 



3. Serge or zig-zag stitch the raw edges. Trim threads. 


4. Iron. Press your side seams towards the back of the dress. Press your shoulder seams toward the back of the dress. Ironing the seam really gives it a more professional finish and helps the seam lay flat. 



Want to see what it looks like?? Go ahead and try it on! It isn't finished, obviously, but slip it on and see how it looks! Once we add sleeves and give it some hems it will be done!!

That's it for today! That didn't take long at all! Go enjoy your day and I will see you here tomorrow to assemble and attach those sleeves!
Let me know how it's going! I would love to hear!

Monday, October 3, 2016

Sazerac Shift Dress sewing pattern SEW ALONG Day 1 - Cutting the fabric

Sazerac Shift Dress Sew Aong
Day 1 

I am so glad you all are joining me this week to make yourself a Sazerac Shift Dress! We will do a few steps each day of the pattern and by Friday you can wear it, share it and show it off! I cannot wait to see pictures of your dresses! You can tag us on instagram #sazeracdress #seaminglysmitten or share it in our facebook group HERE!

Here's the plan:
Monday - print your pattern, choose your size, cut out fabric pieces
Tuesday - sew dress at side seams and shoulders
Wednesday - sew sleeve seams and inset sleeves
Thursday - hem sleeves, neckline and dress hem
Friday - finish, wear it and share it!!



Let's get started!

1. FABRIC CARE: You should have already chosen your fabric, washed and dried it (if the fabric is washable) and ironed it to press it all flat! It is a great idea to always wash your fabric once you get it home from the fabric store. I know you are really excited to get started sewing with it, but fabric can shrink once washed and dried. If you make a dress without pre-washing your fabric and then wash and dry it, it could end up shrinking after all that hard work! It's also important to iron your fabric flat to make sure the shapes that you are cutting are consistent and the exact size you need.

2. Print your pattern. Print pattern pages numbered 14-25. ****When you print, make sure your printer is set to “Page Scaling – Fit to printable area” and “Auto-rotate and center” or choose “Print at 100%.”
**Since all printers are different here are various options for you to choose on your printer options:
Some customers select page scaling NONE.
Some customers select page scaling AS IS.
Some customers select page scaling ACTUAL SIZE.
Some customers select page scaling 100%.
To ensure your pattern printed correctly, the one inch
box must measure one inch exactly.

3. Assemble the patternYou will lay out your pattern pages by simply joining the edges of the pages. You do not overlap at all and do not need to trim the edges of the paper. Even though the colored lines do not print all the way to the edge of the page, this space is all taken into account. If you overlap them then you are changing the size of the pieces. So do not overlap, just lay them out and tape them.


4. Choosing your size When choosing your size, go by your largest measurement. EXAMPLE: If your bust is 36 but your hips are 41 you are in between a medium and a large. You can cut out a large or cut out a medium neckline, shoulders and underarms and then taper the dress pattern piece out to the large along the side seams so it fits your hips. It is very easy to blend sizes, just cut from one color coded line to the next size.

Determining dress length:  You can easily add on length to this dress! Simply lower the bottom horizontal line as many inches as you need. That will be your new hem cutting line. To get the perfect length, measure from the top of your shoulder down to where you want your dress to hit and write that down. To do this, I measure from my shoulder, down and over my bust and down to the spot above me knee. I want a desired final length of 34 inches. When I cut, I will make sure from the top of the shoulder pattern piece down to the bottom hem is 35 inches because I need to add 1 inch for the hem. This means I would cut my pattern on the regular length cutting lines since I want more length even though I usually wear petite. 
Photo from http://www.shailis.com/Measurements.html
Determining sleeve length: To measure the sleeve length you need, measure from the top of your arm to 1 inch below your wrist while your arm is slightly bent. I get 23 inches and then I add 1 inch to get a sleeve length of 24 inches. When I measure the length of my sleeve pattern piece I will need to cut on the regular long sleeve cutting line. 
photo from http://www.shailis.com/Measurements.html
5. Cut out your paper pattern pieces  Once you know your correct size and length you need, cut around the color coded lines for your dress and your sleeves. Make sure you cut at the higher neckline (back neckline) when you cut out the dress pattern piece. 

6. Cut out a back dress pattern piece. 
Lay the pattern piece along the fold of your fabric, pin and cut around the pattern piece
for the BACK of the dress. Make sure you use the higher neckline cutting lines.


7. Cut out a front dress pattern piece on the fold. 
Now trim to the front neckline cutting line. Lay the dress pattern piece along the fold of your fabric, pin and cut around the pattern piece for the FRONT of the dress. Make sure you use the lower  neckline cutting lines. (If you want to lower your neckline to a more scooped neckline, trim the neckline to your desired scoop on the paper pattern piece and then cut out your dress front.)
8. Cut out 2 sleeve pattern pieces on the fold.  Lay your sleeve pattern piece on the fold of your fabric. You want the stretchiest part of your fabric where the armhole curve is.
Cut out 2 sleeve pattern pieces. 


That's all for today! Tomorrow we will sew the dress side seams and shoulders, and sew along the sleeve side seams and it will be a fast sew day!
Hope to see you back here tomorrow!

Comment below and let me know if you're enjoying doing this in parts!

Saturday, October 1, 2016

Sazerac Shift Dress SEW ALONG Fabric Choice

Sazerac Shift Dress PDF sewing pattern 
Sew Along Fabric Choice

I am so excited for you all to join me this week as we sew ourselves a Sazerac Shift Dress! Sometimes it is too hard to set aside an entire afternoon to make a project and if we all wait for the perfect time to start sewing, we might not ever start! With this sew along I will post a few steps for you to do each day (that takes about 10-20 minutes) and by Friday you will have a NEW DRESS for yourself and able to wear it out! 
Need the pattern? GRAB IT HERE for $3.00 with coupon: SEWALONG at checkout! 
(Offer valid 10/1/16-10/7/16)

The Sazerac Shift Dress sewing pattern will help you make your own shift dress with three sleeve length options (short sleeve, three quarter length or long sleeve) and a scoop or v-neck front with a relaxed fit. You can even add an optional elastic waist to give it a modern and gathered look!

Let's choose your fabric!
Fabric choice is such an important first step to making a piece of clothing. Think of items that you have in your closet - what fabrics do you wear the most? I tend to wear fabrics that do not wrinkle because let's be honest, I don't love to iron my clothes! So if I can wash it, dry it and wear it, it is a great addition to my wardrobe. 

When you are in the fabric store check the fabric content, the feel of the fabric, its drape and even the fabric weight. Be sure to note if it needs to be washed or dry cleaned. Lately I have been taking a picture of the fabric description on the side of the bolt. It especially comes in handy when you need to know the width of the fabric, the content and the cleaning instructions! I love feeling all the fabric in the fabric store! When you find one for your dress, make sure it drapes nicely! I hang it over my arm and check to see the weight of the fabric, how the folds lie when it falls, how it flows (or is it too heavy), does it not have enough structure to make the garment...etc. If it is too stiff of a fabric I put it right back and keep looking. Hold it up to the light. Can you see through it? If you love it but can see through it, make sure you have something to wear under it.

Suggested Fabric Types: lightweight fabrics such as cotton, cotton blends, poly, voile, rayon, linen, silk, crepe de chine, double georgette or even a lightweight matte jersey, cotton/lycra, lightweight knit or sweater knit or similar

Here are some photos showing the dress in different fabrics!

Here is the Sazerac Shift Dress on Teri (below) - she used a floral rayon challis fabric

Below is the dress on Nicole. She used a rayon.


Lisa K. used a cotton/jersey knit fabric. 
Kim Coffin of Sweet Red Poppy used a poly

Amy S. used a medium weight interlock knit. 

For my original Sazerac Shift Dress I made I chose this printed poly blend:
But for the sew along I found these two great prints the other day at JoAnn's and did not want to pass them up! I really love the geometric print (100% poly) on the left but also wanted one in this multi-colored  print with black background (100% rayon). I am going to use the red one (the 100% poly fabric) for the sew along and I cannot wait to get started!! 

COMMENT BELOW and let me know which fabric you are going to use!


Grab your fabric, wash it, dry it and get ready for Monday!!

Here's the plan:

Monday - cut out fabric pieces
Tuesday - sew dress at side seams and shoulders
Wednesday - sew sleeve seams and inset sleeves
Thursday - hem sleeves, neckline and dress hem
Friday - finish, wear it and share it!! 

Hope you join us!!
Come join us in our facebook sewing group and share your photos! We cannot wait to see!!